|
@@ -0,0 +1,86 @@
|
|
1
|
+title: Blog
|
|
2
|
+post: Reviving a broken bench top power supply
|
|
3
|
+description: Using a chinese RD DPH-5005 buck/boost module
|
|
4
|
+date: 2021-06-25
|
|
5
|
+parent: projects
|
|
6
|
+---
|
|
7
|
+
|
|
8
|
+About two years ago, in 2019, my bench top power supply decided to give up.
|
|
9
|
+It no longer showed the correct voltage, only displaying zero, and the regulation did not seem to work anymore either.
|
|
10
|
+I noticed that when a battery I tried to charge started smoking... 😰
|
|
11
|
+
|
|
12
|
+Because of all the hassle of moving, I moved it to the healing bench where it stayed for a while.
|
|
13
|
+Some months ago, I decided to do something about it, and went to the Conrad Support.
|
|
14
|
+I originally bought it there, and they still sell it today.
|
|
15
|
+They had me send it in, but then decided they couldn't do anything about it.
|
|
16
|
+
|
|
17
|
+Some years earlier I saw [a video on the EEVblog YouTube channel about RDTech power supply modules](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cw2AjcczHg4).
|
|
18
|
+So I decided to give them a go and ordered the [DPH-5005 module](https://de.aliexpress.com/item/32840324731.html).
|
|
19
|
+
|
|
20
|
+<!--%
|
|
21
|
+lightgallery([
|
|
22
|
+ [ "img/rd_psu_mod_7.jpg", "Front view of the finished PSU" ],
|
|
23
|
+ [ "img/rd_psu_mod_6.jpg", "Side view of the finished PSU" ],
|
|
24
|
+])
|
|
25
|
+%-->
|
|
26
|
+
|
|
27
|
+As you can see, I simply replaced the front panel of my existing power supply, re-using the transformer and parts for the rectifier.
|
|
28
|
+On the 3D printed replacement front, I mounted the display module as well as the buck/boost module itself.
|
|
29
|
+I also kept the original power switch, but added new output connectors.
|
|
30
|
+
|
|
31
|
+<!--%
|
|
32
|
+lightgallery([
|
|
33
|
+ [ "img/basetech_bt305_cover_2.png", "Front view of the 3D model"],
|
|
34
|
+ [ "img/basetech_bt305_cover_1.png", "Back side of the 3D model"],
|
|
35
|
+])
|
|
36
|
+%-->
|
|
37
|
+
|
|
38
|
+The rectifier of the original power supply consisted of a PCB mounted to a big heatsink in the back.
|
|
39
|
+It had some relais to switch between the different windings of the transformer, as well as the switching transistors and the rectifier.
|
|
40
|
+I desoldered the diode package and the capacitors.
|
|
41
|
+The diodes are still mounted to their original spot on the heatsink, with the leads simply soldered on.
|
|
42
|
+For the capacitors, I used a piece of strip-perf-board I had lying around, mounted with a spacer to one of the existing, now empty, holes of the heatsink.
|
|
43
|
+I used two strips of copper for each of the positive and negative poles, with a thick layer of solder on top so it can easily carry the current.
|
|
44
|
+
|
|
45
|
+<!--%
|
|
46
|
+lightgallery([
|
|
47
|
+ [ "img/rd_psu_mod_1.jpg", "Left view inside the opened device" ],
|
|
48
|
+ [ "img/rd_psu_mod_5.jpg", "Right view inside the opened device" ],
|
|
49
|
+])
|
|
50
|
+%-->
|
|
51
|
+
|
|
52
|
+Figuring out the details of the transformer was a bit of an issue.
|
|
53
|
+It seems to be a specially made transformer, just for this power supply.
|
|
54
|
+Even though it has an identifying label, it contains no usable information, and the numbers on it lead nowhere on Google.
|
|
55
|
+So I first measured the resistance / continuity (while powered off and unplugged of course!) to determine which wires are part of one coil.
|
|
56
|
+Turns out, there are two main output windings, one with only the two outer connections, and one with a bunch of center taps.
|
|
57
|
+I connected two ends of the two windings, and used the outer-most connection points, to get the maximum voltage, which is a bit less than 40V AC, or 50V DC rectified.
|
|
58
|
+
|
|
59
|
+This is also where I made an error in the selection of the DPH-5005 module.
|
|
60
|
+I specifically selected it because it can also boost the voltage up, instead of only stepping down.
|
|
61
|
+I did this because I wanted to get the full range of 50V, thinking I only had 40V input voltage.
|
|
62
|
+However, I forgot to consider that the rectified DC voltage is higher than the AC voltage.
|
|
63
|
+So I would not even need a boost module to reach the 50V output voltage.
|
|
64
|
+Of course, it still works fine that way.
|
|
65
|
+
|
|
66
|
+<!--%
|
|
67
|
+lightgallery([
|
|
68
|
+ [ "img/rd_psu_mod_2.jpg", "Closer look at the display module" ],
|
|
69
|
+ [ "img/rd_psu_mod_3.jpg", "Close up of the rectifier" ],
|
|
70
|
+ [ "img/rd_psu_mod_4.jpg", "Closer view of the connectors and the buck/boost module" ],
|
|
71
|
+])
|
|
72
|
+%-->
|
|
73
|
+
|
|
74
|
+For the output connectors, I ordered some proper [Hirschmann PKI10 A](https://www.conrad.de/de/p/sks-hirschmann-pki-10-a-au-polklemme-rot-35-a-1-st-732786.html) Polklemmen.
|
|
75
|
+The original connectors used on the power supply are of the safety-4mm-banana-plug style.
|
|
76
|
+I don't even own a cable like that, but I sometimes need to connect a bare wire, so these fit my use case much better.
|
|
77
|
+
|
|
78
|
+The DPH-5005 also has a Bluetooth or USB option.
|
|
79
|
+They both come in the form of a small extra PCB, with either a Bluetooth module or a USB-Serial chip.
|
|
80
|
+I added mounts for the Bluetooth module in my design.
|
|
81
|
+
|
|
82
|
+Supposedly ['rdserialtool' by rfinnie](https://github.com/rfinnie/rdserialtool) can be used to access the device via the serial port over USB or Bluetooth.
|
|
83
|
+I have not yet gotten this to work with Bluetooth, however, and have not tried USB.
|
|
84
|
+Also see the [sigrok wiki](https://sigrok.org/wiki/RDTech_DPS_series) for some more about the protocol and available settings.
|
|
85
|
+
|
|
86
|
+My 3D design for the replacement front [is available on my Gitea server](https://git.xythobuz.de/thomas/3d-print-designs/src/branch/master/basetech_bt305_cover.scad).
|